I took a long chicken bus journey from my home in Antigua to my new home in Mazatenango, Guatemala aka the middle of nowhere. Here’s the story.
Where is Mazatenango? I wasn’t sure until I arrived via chicken bus about 2 weeks ago. When I told locals in Antigua that I was going to live in Mazatenango, they laughed. “HACE CALOR!” (it’s hot!) I was warned numerous times how hot it is and how there are no gringos (white Americans) in Mazatenango. Perfect. Right when it starts to get cold in Chicago, I can bake in the heat. My first winter out of the Midwest!!!
Antigua was perfect, but the town is made up of tourists and expats. I needed to get out before I decided to never leave!
I accepted a work exchange position as a Zumba instructor at a holistic weight loss clinic. Teaching Zumba classes in exchange for free housing and meals. It would be my second work exchange in Guatemala! I got fired from my first work exchange, so I’m hoping this one goes a bit better.
I contemplated taking a nice bus from Guatemala City OR take 2 chicken buses (local buses) from Antigua. I obviously went with the chicken bus. More adventure, less money.
What is a Chicken Bus?
Chicken buses are decked out, ghetto fabulous recycled American school buses with nothing but locals aboard. You are warned (mostly by people who never ride chicken buses) to be careful, you might get robbed or the bus could crash.
At first, I was afraid, but then I remembered how people told me not to go to Guatemala, because “it’s dangerous.” And here I am in one of the most beautiful and interesting countries in the world.
First mission: Antigua to Escuintla (8Q/$1.07)
I get to the bus station in Antigua, my friend helps me find the packed Escuintla bus. I have to run on because it is on its way out. My friend tells the ayudante (conductor/bus worker) that I am headed to Mazate and to please take care of me. My big backpack gets put on top of the bus and I make my way inside. I sit next to this older couple who keeps smiling at me. How sweet. The guy across the aisle, old man with a cowboy hat (farmer?), is sleeping/unconscious and drooling on the floor. There are 3 people to a seat plus the aisle is packed with people. I rested my left side of my body on someone’s butt or crotch the entire trip. The right side of my body was practically on top of the husband sitting next to me. And my small backpack rested on top of my lap. Very comfortable experience.
Thirty minutes into the trip, there is an impromptu church sermon. The lady talked for about 15 minutes. It was something about her kids, the word of the lord, God, and the devil. I only understood about 10% of it. It was one of the most passionate speeches I have ever witnessed, even surpassing the Southern Baptist sermons I have seen. At the end, she asked for money. I think she deserved a couple Quetzales ($$$).
During the entire ride, new passengers get on from the side of the rode. Just when you think it is not possible for anyone else to fit, five more people squeeze in. Just a quick reminder, I am the only traveler/gringo. I kept looking around and laughing, wishing this experience could be filmed. Vendors hop on frequently selling juice, soda, fruit, sandwiches, fresh chips.
We’re just about to get to the Escuintla station (I think) and the ayudante looks directly at me and says “something something MAZATE!” That’s my cue. I rush off the bus and jump off while the bus is still moving. The ayudante throws my large backpack off the top of the bus and points to the bus behind us. Okay. So I run onto the moving bus behind us which doesn’t say Mazate anywhere on it.
Second bus: Escuintla to “I…ango?” (20Q/$2.67)
My friend clearly told me: take the Escuintla bus to the bus station then find a DIRECT bus to Mazate. Within minutes my friend calls. “Are you on the direct bus to Mazate?”….. Not exactly. I ask the man next to me what bus I’m on. He tells me we are on a bus to “I…ango.” Perfect. I remind the ayudante I’m going to Mazate, he says something in Spanish and shaked his head. I know from the man next to me that there’s buses to Mazate once we get to this new town. I was in a state of panic for about 2 minutes, then came to my senses. I would get to Mazate somehow.
I ask my new bus friend about 30 questions, 15 of them being “what town is this bus going to again?” A toddler in the seat behind won’t stop crying. The little girl then grabs the back of my neck with her nails. I don’t react. Two minutes later I feel my neck to make sure it’s not bleeding. No blood.
All the sudden, the conductor looks at me and motions for me to get off the bus. I say bye to my bus friend and run off the bus. Same experience as the last, I get on the bus directly behind us which clearly says “Mazate.” The conductor tells me I don’t have to pay on this bus, because I already paid them. Okay, cool.
Third bus: No idea to Mazatenango!!! (free)
Finally! After about 30 minutes, I arrive at Mazate station! I get off the bus and walk over to one of the stands selling things. It’s hot out. I buy an ice cold orange Gatorade. I felt an overwhelming feeling of victory as I waited on a curb drinking my Gatorade. I wait about 15 minutes for the lady from the clinic to pick me up.
Carla picks me up. She asks me again what I will be teaching. I tell her I am a certified Zumba instructor (like I have been teaching for years). She sees a yoga mat attached to my backpack and asks if I can teach yoga as well. Sure, why not.
Related article: How to Travel for Free, Travel Budget for Guatemala
Tips for Riding Chicken Buses
- Don’t use your phone or anything expensive
- Wear light clothing (it gets SUPER toasty)
- Pay after you sit down and pay attention to how much everyone else is paying (you may be tricked into paying extra, so pay attention)
- If you have a large bag, it’ll go on the roof of the bus (it’s okay!)
- Carry all valuables on the bus with you
- It’s normal for sellers to come on the bus with snacks and different things to sell (it’s okay to buy food off of them, but keep in mind the food may have been sitting out for a while.)
- I recommend riding a chicken bus at least once!!! Yes, they are safe for solo female travelers. Just use normal precaution.
Cheers to your adventures! Have you ever ridden a chicken bus? What was your experience like? Have you ever been to Mazatenango? Any experience with Work Away? Best experiences in Guatemala? *share in the comments*
xoxo,
Court
1 Comment
Living in Guatemala: 3 Month Update | Courtney The Explorer
May 27, 2020 at 6:44 pm[…] A Chicken Bus Journey to Mazatenango, Guatemala Hiking Acatenango: What to Expect […]